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What we try to do is let the main ingredient stand out. So rather than promising someone a dish with fois gras and having this miniscule little bit, you order a piece of fish here, it is the fish that you order and it's not mucked around with too much. And it will have what we think is a suitable accompaniment.

The menu changes every day.

At the moment we've got stringray on, Skate, and Skate is a fish that can stand a lot of flavour and so we make up a stuff called Lorne Spice which is a version of Cajun mix. Again, you've got to know your product and have a feel for what it needs. For example, Gummy Shark; it's a fish that needs to be aged, it begs to be frozen, when it's fresh it's awful.

Just let the flavour of the core ingredient speak for itself. The accompaniments change because of what's in season and fresh. Tomorrow say, I'll go up the veggie patch and see Jerusalem Artichokes and think how good they are with some sort of offal.

One of my old apprentices runs a butchers shop in Airey's and she'll ring up and say she's got some sweet breads and knows that I'll be really pleased to have them. We always have offal on the menu because people like it and no one cooks it, it is a skill that is disappearing.

It's looking at the ingredient, what we've got, what we can use as an accompaniment with it, without mucking with it too much – it is crucially important.

If a fisherman is going to bring in something that is wonderful, then it is our duty to put it on the menu, not to let it rot, or freeze it and bring it back.

It all comes back to the wine with it too. We don't sell much beer here, it is all about the wine.